It is a derivative type of Stryker armored car. I made it from October 2013 to January 2014.
I’ll be making the modern vehicle again after a long interval. It is the Striker M1134 Anti-Tank Guided Missile(ATGM) model. I had already purchased it at the big shopping mall when I opened the box. I noticed the parts A group and parts E group were not in this box. Although I did not understand which distribution process they lost, I have no receipt. I wonder what I would do with it since the receipt was thrown away long ago. After all, import agent GSI Creos, Mr.Hobby coped with this difficulty; I was saved very much, very helpful. I appreciate this company’s prompt action.
Since AFV Club’s items are all easy to make, sharp, and cool, this plastic model is not all needed to become futile. It almost became part-picking…
Assembling from the chassis is the same as the M1126 I made last time.
The last time I painted tire parts in mat black, I think this time I’ll blow the only mat clear, keep the remaining material quality.
The upper parts have also been made little by little. Since I plan to pick up a tank crew member, hatches remain open. There are so many tiny parts.
(12-October-2013)
I was recently busy with various matters, and my assembly work is slow. I just attached the etched parts and the nylon cable. It seems that a traction cable is rolled around from the drum of the middle placed, and it lets out from the center front part along with a guide.
The area of the front headlight and side blinker is a highly complex composition and unclear only by having seen an instruction manual.
Although I was making Stryker once before, I almost forgot the process, checking to see the box art by trial and error assemble. I’m not sure it’s genuinely precisely placed all the parts. Since it was collected into one lump at a good touch, I think it is OK.
It became a fragile shape and broken If I didn’t touch it carefully. A rearview mirror, the machine gun, etc., will be broken easily.
It is a two-cannon-equipped TOW antitank missile launch machine.
Since I usually make WWII tanks and their primary weapon is a large cannon barrel, I have a strange feeling when I think such-shaped things are the primary weapon, prime arms. Weapon performance is continuing to go up.
(27-October-2013)
Assembly completed the rear hatch and missile launch machine. The rear hatch is movable open and closed, but the inside is not made this time.
I just checked the situation of the missile machine support pillar and found out that adhesives were flowing into the gap and fixed a little. I corrected hurriedly; it was dangerous.
Almost the assembly process was completed. The instruction manual said the antennas are made of runner stretching, but I made them from a 0.2mm metal wire to prevent damage. It is like a ship if the tires are not attached…
In this kit, many belts are included. There are no parts to support the left side attached pole that I used the jerrican fixed belt. This kit required many parts attached for instant glue; my hands are completely covered with this glue…
Since the exhaust cover, which was not in M1126, was attached by etching, I used it. It’s an option, not necessary to be attached, although it seems that the actual vehicle under operation has equipped that cover very well these days.
The photo-etched parts belt working is more severe, and delicate work is required. I couldn’t do the detailed work, so I omitted small work.
I left a side light lens; I have to correct it later.
I thought it was not so smart looking before the beginning of the assembly after completion; it seems dependable and cool. Overall, all parts are delicate and sharp, making a brilliant impression.
Two kinds of missiles are attached. The left is BGM-71F, and the right side is BGM-71C. After ejecting from a pipe, wings are extended automatically, and the flight to an enemy will be stabilized.
(09-November-2013)
It’s not usually as WWII figures which I ordinarily make. It seems like a bulletproof vest is equipped to standardize for every soldier.
Many general tools are attached, and various rifles we can choose from. The rifle type is M4A1 Carbine, +M203 (with a grenade launcher), M249SAW, M249 PARA, and others. We also choose many magazine types, dot sight scope, and optical aim machines.
These are two types of camouflage paint decals. If we use it well, time-consuming camouflage paint is avoided.
The left is the scattering parts of one figure. Right is, although rough, a quickly assembled figure and rifle.
I adjusted the head a little to be deeply covered with a helmet. Since the box art does not have the sight of the figure’s back, it does not become helpful. It’s more a feeling of tension that may come out and good looking. There are many U.S. Forces soldier’s accessories, and this kit has no directions.
A touch which the designer who got to know all equipment of the U.S. Forces naturally attached available tools. I don’t understand the U.S. Forces equipment, entire amateur; I wonder how to attach this much equipment and accessories. Let’s think after shaping all six figures.
I think the right-side tank crew’s legs are a little thin. There is some gap in these figures. And the stability of a head is terrible; I’ll correct it later. But the mold of a face is suitable for injection figures.
I just placed two crew on this kit; it’s pretty good. The expression is common. The least considering and worrying is that the decal is good quality for these uniforms. I had already run out of “decal fit” (decal softener that had a more substantial effect than Mr.Hobby produced)
(24-November-2013)
Rubber tires are once removed before painting, and it only attaches the wheels on the body. A rear hatch and the hatch of the back upper part can be opened and closed. Since there is especially no inside content, it usually closes.
All were washed with neutral detergent before painting. These days in Japan, it will not immediately get dry.
U.S. modern army tank crew. Facial expression is good.
Three U.S. modern tank crew from the back. I think it’s not necessary to attach the crew’s back. But compared with the infantry figure’s heavy equipment, I’m worried I had made a mistake.
They are U.S. army infantry before attaching rifles and goggles. The place of equipment, small bags, and general tools has been chiefly attached to my imagination. It seems to be heavy and hard-working. I heard these gears’ total weight is around 50 to 70 lb.
Each soldier with a small rucksack, a large-sided backpack, a walkie-talkie, etc. Small gaps, such as a rucksack and their back, were corrected with epoxy putty.
(06-December-2013)
Basic painting, using Mr.Color No.123 RLM83 Dark Green.
The contrast using Mr. Color No. 340 Field Green FS34097, but after that, too much contrast, and not natural. I blew dark green again to weaken the contrast.
Shocking photo… From the first, I had a bad premonition. The decal of the uniform, which was my only hope, is this condition. These decals’ hand feeling is harsh and dry, unlike Cartograf Decal’s smooth one. Since there are so many cracks and useless, all the camouflage paintings will be handwritten automatically…
Well, vigorously, I had made six bodies, and there is no description of camouflage uniform colors on this kit. I’ll check it later.
(15-January-2014)
Tires are made of rubber; there are parting lines. I recommend you erase all eight tires. The Left 3 are already erased, and the right side ones are not yet.
I fitted the tires and blew the mat clear on the body. After the tire, it became bright at last.
Well, I think it’s pretty splendid without detailed research. The camouflage of a desert pattern is underpainting. It is the Tamiya enamel color of XF-52 flat earth, XF-57 buff, and XF-60 dark yellow, which I used. pett
Six-figure face painting was almost completed, but not yet gloss control. The left one looks like an Asian person, and the right is rather white. The right is a slightly deeper eye.
(18-January-2014)
As the standard type Stryker version, this kit also does not have OVM straps; I made them for attaching thin plastic bands.
Missiles BGM-71F and BGM-71C painting. This photo is almost removed enamel paint. At first, I used Tamiya enamel paint by brushing, but it did not work well. I intend to brow Creos, Mr. Color, and show you in the Gallery.
(22-January-2014)
I found a very nice item. It’s a periscope decal of a reflective coating. It seems a good accent of the vehicle.
I have almost completed the figure painting—a challenging work of detailed camouflage painting of 2 kinds of patterns.
(22-January-2014)
The Stryker, which has been made since last year October, was completed at last. Missing items and the crack of the decal are overcome.
I made a standard Stryker four and a half years ago; it’s also on my homepage. Although that is a lovely experience, I regard the base color choice as more accurate, like an actual vehicle this time.
The last Stryker was done on a grand scale, weathering by pastel. This time, I almost did the washing moderately, with very little pastel work. I can see the inside of the exhaust cover, which was not painted, and the brass panel is exposed. Although the inside is hardly visible in usual looking…
The red bolt hook and taillights are good accents.
Back large-sized hatch can be opened and closed. It won’t be enjoyable if we look into it because I didn’t make it inside the interior. The warning light of orange is my favorite portion. Cause such coloring does not exist when tank making, it’s exciting.
Depending on looking angle, since the headlight of orange is gloss finished, it doesn’t shine in this photo.
The marking seal of the periscopes kit includes the seal of gunsight of a rocket; it’s very nice, looking like a high-tech mechanical weapon.
The area soiled too much with the mud color washing is returned to rubber black on these tires by dry brushing. It makes emphasizes the tire tread pattern.
Dragon Models’ decal quality is better than this kit. I like softer decals cause of easy handling.
They are three crews who are going to mount. Brown color washing was made to settle down the vivid camouflage.
Maybe you are not interested in it; it’s the sight of their back. Helmets are dusted a little by using pastels.
The missile launcher makes an ascending vertical angle the maximum, raising motivation. A crew will be unsavory with a flame if it is discharged in this situation…
The crew in a cockpit is doing the temporary fastened with double-stick tape. I like it remove at any time. It’s hard to take a photo in the shadow of the cockpit cover.
Three infantry soldiers of U.S. modern troops. Especially the middle soldier became a fearless expression. The knee pad is also shifted and taken down to the ankle.
Zoomed-up photo. The left soldier’s goggles had the cover, lusterless, but the right exposed a glass, so took gloss with clear paint.
Of course, it’s the subject of camouflage. The outline of a rucksack is unclear when camouflage is painted. I think it’s suitable for one or two sacks to paint on Olive Drab for change.
Enamel paint camouflage was guarded after lacquer-like Mr.Color painting mat clear painting. After that, again, enamel washing is no problem.
I think it’s a Colt M4 carbine rifle. It’s with a launcher.
Going to move a military operation from a rear hatch.
When I see from the top, it’s feeling like an operational commander.
Two missiles in the center are blown with the airbrush mixed silver and gold about 3:7. The seemingly glossy finish looks real. Fairly busy when three crews and three infantry soldiers are put in together. Figure-making is harder than Stryker itself. I wonder the hard work is rewarded or not. Anyway, it takes a lot of time but is enjoyable. Since it’s complete work after a long time, I’m happy.
(24-January-2014)
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