I started the Tamiya IFV Bradley. To raise my motivation, I read the title “Team Yankee,” written by Harold Coyle. A description of the situation of a single squad member who could not understand the whole picture of the war and the tank activity inside was wonderful. The US military was too strong, but they were in a difficult situation, depending on the time. I remember watching a movie that shows only the inside of the tank called “Lebanon” long ago.
I installed rolling wheels on the chassis.
After installing the rear hatch, I left it for a while because I had some advice on the instructions to avoid moving it until dry.
This is Tamiya’s belt track link.
There is a number on the reverse side of the increased armor parts; separating them from the runner is OK.
(2016/12/13)
This belt caterpillar is tough. I’m worried about fitting.
The parts joint is almost OK. The other parts might cover some gaps.
With a lot of armor and rivets, it has become a rough impression.
(2017/01/01)
The part where the Caterpillar can be seen is very slight. Moreover, it is about half of the drive sprocket and the idler wheel exposed on the curved surface. When bonding this curved part, a realistic feeling of Caterpillar can be expressed if you bend the track joint and bond it.
If it’s the reason, not a connection caterpillar, it is a good belt caterpillar part.
The large rear door, tightening loose, will be open independently. There is nothing to show in particular with the inside, so it would finally be glued together.
There are a lot of accessories. This is one of the sales of this kit. As far as possible, using accessories and referring to the instructions looks pretty different from pre-installation and is interesting. I had to think about where to place a lot of accessories so that space opened where I could see the decals.
Because Tamiya’s color designation is TS-46 Light Sand, Sandy Brown No. 19 of Mr. Color seems precisely right. It is almost the same feeling of molded color before painting. Since I use the weathering technique using fuel alcohol, primary paint and equipment were painted with lacquer paint.
This kit includes three modern American tank crew. The two left figures are the latest, and the face mold is perfect. The right one is an old model; I changed the face of the resin head. I am trying to make three figures. It might be wrong to put them together.
Before using fuel alcohol, the tank body was covered with clear, and the surface was now glossed.
In Tamiya’s instructions, there was a way to paint the camouflage clothing of the desert pattern and the woodland pattern. Because this vehicle served in the Iraq war, they are wearing a desert pattern.
(2017/01/04)
It strengthens the defensive power by bolting a 25mm steel armor board on each side of the aluminum alloy body and turret. In case of a hit, the Kepler liner is stretched inside of the body so that it will reduce the damage.
ODS Bradley’s ODS stands for Operation Desert Storm. Electronic devices are greatly strengthened and equipped with enemy ally identification devices.
After painting with Mr. Color sand yellow, I got a dust effect on the AFV body surface with fuel alcohol and water paint. Using the alcohol technique well matches the dust expression of the desert vehicle. I think it’s pretty effective on a monotonous surface. It was good exercise for me this time.
It seems to be in the invasion if you put a lot of equipment such as Alice packs, sleeping bags, tents, etc.
The marking can be selected from the time of the Kosovo conflict of the former Yugoslavia or the Iraq war. I chose A Company (Maneuver Support), 2nd Battalion, 7th Infantry Regiment (Mechanized), 1st Brigade, 3rd Infantry Division (Mechanized), Southern Baghdad, April 2003.
I made two antennas with metal wire.
I used the anti-reflection coating lens seal of AFV CLUB for Periscope and others.
How does it fix this spare wheel? I wonder if I neglected a bit of verification. It may be a metal hook behind the wheel.
When looking at the picture of the actual AFV, the periscope and missile launcher, etc., maybe it was just as good as gross black because it does not shine so unnaturally. However, since struggling passed, it is probably a model expression. Before making, it is better to have a look with lots of real car and tank data.
Surprisingly marking is plain. Being a US military vehicle, I was surprised that there was no star mark.
Well, I failed. The up-and-down movements of the main gun have been fixed while installing the additional turret armor. It is parallel to the ground, so it looks not bad.
The two on the left were the kit straight, and the figure on the right replaced only the face with the resin head. I guess it was better to use resin.
The expression of this figure is pretty nice.
I can only see a face if I get him in the car.
Looking from the back, it seems three people are consulting the strategy.
To decorate figures and vehicles separately, figures had a round table. There is realism when getting in, so now it displays like this. It was almost completed a while ago; I finally got it up to this site.
(06-Jan-2016)
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To answer your question, the spare road wheels and track links are often spot welded on, so they can act as extra armor. If you need to replace one of those under fire, you’ve got bigger problems then a broken road wheel, so they don’t bother making them easy to remove.
I see! There is no problem with welding if road wheels are installed expecting to play an extra armor from the beginning. I didn’t know that. Thank you for your explanation!
First thing first the drives hatch does not open all the way like you show . and second no one as the. Authority to weld on any part of the vehicle brackets are made to hold road wheel on .
I forgot the details because I made it a long time ago, but thank you very much for the comment.