I made the Academy’s Merkava IV a while ago; when I compare Academy’s and Hobby Boss, I do not see much difference in shape. This time, I decided to build Hobby Boss’ Merkava IIID.
I attach a lot of small parts to the chassis. This side is hidden with side skirts, so I don’t have t be so nervous.
The suspension and the rollers are also done. The idler wheels were complicated in shape, but these are one-shot injection parts, and no need to build; it’s impressive.
Caterpillar and sprocket wheel teeth don’t match. It does not match at all, a demonic design. I have made several Hobby Boss AFVs, but I have never seen a caterpillar that fits tightly. Is this fatal for a model maker? I’m very sorry because expecting much of this Merkava I’m I think this part is the minimum responsibility of a model maker.
Each piece of caterpillar has a good mold and high quality. It is nothing to struggle to bend a little while building. It is troublesome to fit the tiny pins on both sides, but by using tweezers handling trained with battleship photo-etched parts last time, I assemble them in relatively smooth modeling.
I want to name this “hobby boss method” here! Blow off the teeth of the sprocket wheel and bond it later. Previously, I used the same way when I assembled a Hobb Boss Panzerkampfwagen I type C (VK 601).
It fitted successfully.
It’s not so unnatural.
If I don’t wind all of the caterpillars, I can hide them with don’t skirts, so it’s no problem to finish the assembly partially completit’sI have rolled up as a practice because there are times when I will have a linked caterpillar with a full-side look. The suspension part, which hides after completion, also looks good now. I was exhausted, only with the lower half of the tank. (09-September-2017)
It was unexpectedly difficult to make the partition plate of the exhaust port on the right side parallel. I noticed it was twisted, so I fixed it later.
A lot of brass balls and chains require complex processes; finally, hang them at the rear of the turret. Ideally, if the root of the shaft of the brass ball is processed into a small ring and connected to the end of the chain cut into five frames, it may be assembled without adhesive. It is impossible for me. I finished it anyway with the use of instant glue. This work is more troublesome than assembling a connect d caterpillar. I think that it can be very appreciated that all materials for an accurate reproduction are available.
Not enough chains attached. When I cut it, I did not waste a single chain, but still, 50 chainrings were not enough for ten chain curtains. On the contrary, the brass balls remain. I hope Hobby Boss thinks more seriously about checking the packaging materials.
The turret with a complicated shape is divided into many parts, but it was assembled relatively precisely. The fit is good.
Because there was no choice, I used the anchor chain I was planning to use for a ship model as a lacking chain. Although they are different in size, they are not noticeable if painted.
(11-September-2017)
Before blowing Sinai gray, I made light and dark monotones. It seems that monotonous painting makes some changes and is enjoyable.
I do not know so well, fixed OVM, as it is in the kit, there is no clamp like the German tanks or a belt like the Allied, so I added additional work with the material on hand to make it look like fixing the belt.
The color of the Sinai Gray seems to change subtly with age. Last time, when I made Merkava IV, Mr. Color No.60, RML gray 60%, and 340 fields green 40%, I made it to a green tone. I like it quite a lot, but the relatively recent Israel tanks are less yellowish and may be closer to gray; Mr. Color No. 60 RLM 02 was mixed with No. 321 light brown and No. 13 neutral gray, I forgot the ratio about it, but I think that it was about 5: 4: 1. I made too much Sinai Gray…
This is the paint. I want to use it again at the time of the Centurion.
Merkava is complete. The Mercava Main Tank is simply a successor to the British-built Centurion in use for many years; the Mk 3 is an evolutionary version of the Mk 1 that debuted in 1979. The turret and body are newly designed and equipped with a 120 mm glided gun. It was officially adopted in 1990. This time, the D in Mk3D stands for Dal Dread, and a new modular type of armor was adopted on the side of the turret to improve all-around protection in urban battles.
Merkava suffered from Hizbullah’s RPG rocket attacks during the Lebanese civil war. Still, the structure of the vehicle also seems to have reduced the casualty rate of its crew relative to vehicle damage. Tankers’ confidence in Merkabah must be pretty high. In the first place, driving a tank into an urban area feels like a death flag.
This time, only one antenna was installed with a metal wire of 0.3 mm.
Periscope seemed natural as gloss black when looking at the actual vehicle photos. I have several kinds of polarizing seals, but I think t at gross black is the best for this Merkava.
I expressed mud dirt three-dimensionally in front and back and left and right. The side armor part worked well, but the tracking was overkill.
I wanted to make the chain curtain more durable if possible. If I move the turret, it will interfere, so decorate it not so heavy moving.
The exhaust port on the side is painted dark. I remembered that Russian BMP, which I made about a year ago, also had exhaust vents around here.
There was one hatch on the body and two places in the turret so that both could be opened and closed. I did not paint inside, though.
The smoke dischargers were assembled in the cover of the open state. I can see the ammunition.
It looks like Merkava has a machine gun in a misplaced place, but this should probably be able to remotely operate the tank soldiers in the turret.
Hobby Boss’s Merkava, this kit is a very labor-intensive assembBoss’sere were a couple of big problems, but the detail is delicate and beautiful!! If you don’t take the time to assemble the caterpillar and they don’t curtain, you will be able to complete it more smoother.
(16-September-2017)
