It is the 2nd ship model. I chose Tamiya’s Abukuma, which is easy to make. I built it in December 2014.
I completed destroyer the other day, so my second navy factory’s battleship is the light cruiser Abukuma. This Tamiya kit is recognized as easily assembled, even for beginner modelers. My impression of these three funnels is an old ship. Abukuma is from the Japanese old god name. Imperial Japanese Navy’s Light Cruiser naming is a river in Japan. Abukuma River is located in the northern area of Japan.
I set in the weight and trial assembly of bridges and funnels. Tamiya kits are easily assembled and user-friendly, and the assembly manual is also full of kind explanations.
The gap of the bow was required to fill in the putty. Portholes and degaussing cables are molded on the side of the ship’s hull.
My AFV process is almost firstly assembly and later painting. This time, I was painting the ship’s bottom and linoleum color. I don’t accustom myself to a building while painting.
(3-December-2014)
I attached small parts to wood sticks before blowing the naval ship base color. It’s national election day tomorrow in Japan. Of course, I’ll vote tomorrow, too. I have never renounced the right to vote. I am sorry that there are still many areas where universal suffrage is not held.
After blowing the Mr.Color dark gray and retouching the detailed area in Tamiya enamel XF-24, the small parts seem quite different in color taste. Mmmm, I was troubled. Eventually, I repainted the small parts with lacquer from Mr. Color. I do not usually paint with a brush in lacquer paint, but there is no way this time. I’ll use the acrylic Tamiya colors for trial in the future. I want to use the same enamel paint color but not release it. I need to think of many gray colors; they are very profound.
The right-side airplane is the Kawanishi E7K reconnaissance water plane, and the Allies’ code name was Alf. When I was a junior high school student, I painted plastic models with all lacquer paint. A little while later, I used lacquer for airbrushing and enamel for handwriting.
Anyway, I have ordered the acrylic warship color of Tamiya. I can use them for the next ship. By the way, I heard that the mixed color of XF-53 neutral gray and XF-63 German gray of the Tamiya enamel was able to make a warship color, but I did not try it this time.
In this box picture, I can see some props between the first and second decks. It was hard to attach them along the round deck under the rear gun turret and catapult. I added them because it was not reproduced in this kit. And the reappearance improved plenty after adding handrails?
(13-December-20014)
Last week, I went to Nagasaki & Kumamoto for a trip with my wife. Kyushu region was influenced in various ways in Japan as a doorway to Western culture and is very interesting historically. I felt the importance of peace and safety still more when I observed the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum and Nagasaki Peace Park. I took lots of photos on this trip, but it’s different from the purpose of this site. Anyway, I completed Abukuma; please see my photos.
According to Tamiya’s instructions,
Commissioned: May 26, 1925,
Displacement: 5,170 long tons (5,570 t) standard
Length: 162.15 m (531 ft 10 in)
Beam: 14.17 m (46 ft 7 in)
Speed: 36 knots (41 mph; 67 km/h)
Complement: 440
Armament: (1941)
• 7 × 14 cm/50 3rd Year Type naval guns
• 4 × Type 96 25 mm AA guns
• four × Type 93 13.2 mm machine guns
• 8 × 24 in (610 mm) torpedo tubes
•16 ×Type 93 torpedoes
On October 25, 1944, Abukuma was hit by one enemy torpedo on the port during the Battle of Leyte Gulf, and the next day 26th, she sank by the attack of more than 30 B-24 bombers. Abukuma participated in many strategies, including the Pearl Harbor attack, and rescued many officers and soldiers in Kiska island disengaging action.
Seeing from a port is like this? The low-angle photo is dynamic.
Abukuma was constructed as the sixth light cruiser of the Nagara type. The form of the bow is a little different from sister ships in the repair from the collision with the cruiser Kitakami. And three chimneys, the deployment of the reconnaissance water plane is a characteristic point.
I tried more antenna cables than before. The image of the kit changes drastically of the antenna and handrail photo-etched parts. It’s more complex work attaching the handrails…
Because molds of linoleum fasten lines are sharp and clear, I did dry brushing with a metallic color. I wonder if there’s a more effective way to paint these fastened lines neatly.
The canvas cover of the gun turret was not in these kit parts. I made them with putty. I also made the poles between the first deck and the second deck, too.
Reconnaissance floatplane, Kawanishi E7K, it’s a biplane, so I made some strings in an X shape, but in this case, the strings are shaped like an N shape; hahaha, only my enthusiasm made this. I also made a propeller from cutting plastic sheets.
Many kinds of boats and motor launches were painted following the indication in the instructions manual.
I did light weathering in rust color.
The first biplane is 1/700… Next time I would like to make a big-scale biplane. But now I’m getting interested in F-15E Strike Eagle because sometimes I’m playing flight shooting games of modern combat planes…
The light cruiser was more significant than the destroyer before I made it, but compared to the battery, you can see the model ship is tiny.
Front face, Imperial Japanese Navy’s symbol mark of chrysanthemum seal.
This flag of the Rising Sun is just paper. I chose the shape of a flapping cloth and attached it with plastic glue.
These are the destroyer I made before and the light cruiser Abukuma. It is said that the 1/700 scale is matched the collection. I agree with it, and two warships are excellent for me!!
I realized the reason that this kit can be recommended to a battleship beginner is that a manual is easy to understand and easy to assemble very much.
I wonder if my next kit will be one of Fujimi’s highly detailed kits. Some of Fujimi’s battleship kits have a name for the super detailed high-quality kit.
(20-December-2014)
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