I will build a Border Model German Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. F1. A few years ago, I bought three Pz. Kpfw. IV kits from a Border Model, so it’s about time I made one. I’m a little sorry that I realized later that I should buy the new Tamiya IV because I love Tamiya. I don’t want to keep many similar kits, so I want to make Tamiya when the stock is slightly reduced. By the way, it is distinguished that the short barrel type is F1 type, and the long barrel type is F2.
In addition to the regular turret, the kit allows us to choose between vehicles with increased armor around the turret or Schultzen mounted on the left and right sides of the body. I want to add something like this because it is a different vehicle from Tamiya. The border model kit box says “Vorpanzer,” which the incrementally armored Type IV tank is called. The Vorpanzer type is unique in that it surrounds from the front of the turret to the turret side hatch. The mold on the vehicle’s underside also seems to be finely molded. The choice of three types is tough to decide. I wish I had bought several of these kits.
There are a lot of rollers, and the layout of the parts is quite well thought out, and the runners are structured so that the parting line does not come out to the center of the rollers. Only the gate area needs to be sanded, making it easy to adjust the parts for the large number.
I had never been able to make the air intake cover on the grill successfully because I didn’t understand the structure of the IV tank family; despite having made them many times, this border kit was the easiest to make.
The many parts at the rear of the vehicle also fit perfectly.
(2023/03/23)
Quite a few kits take the OVM on the fender part and combine it with the vehicle later. The mold of the clamps is fine, so I don’t have to replace it with etched parts.
Larger parts are harder to fit than the assembly of smaller parts. Maybe it’s because I don’t know the point. After all, I’m a first-time maker of it. There was a slight gap between the fender and the armor on the side, which I filled with putty. It is better to adjust the fenders to be as parallel to the ground as possible. Even if it’s tilted, it’s like battle damage, but I think it’s cool if it’s parallel.
I have almost completed the assembly of the body without any major problems. It’s pretty easy to assemble. At one time, some kits were hard to assemble because the parts around the wheel were made up of very detailed parts. This kit is fun to assemble with just the right amount of part-splitting.
These are the parts of the partially connected track in this kit. There seem to be a lot of extra tracks, and even after I put on the reserve track, it still looks like much more remains.
Tank III and Tank IV Series tracks are always likely to go in the wrong direction of attachment, so I proceed while checking.
(2023/03/25)
I tried combining one side. Sometimes the right side is better because I roll from the left side and assemble the right side. Both will work this time. The assembly of the Border Model partial connecting track was very smooth. The parts fit well, and the fine mold is excellent. Other modern tank kits have many trackways that makeup parts, but I wish these were part configurations that were precise and easy to assemble.
I was able to wind the track on both sides safely. I put a tissue between the track and the body until the glue dried and some stuck together. It will look like a muddy expression when it is painted.
The runner had what appeared to be a bolt on the back of the chassis rolling shaft. I’m supposed to attach them.
I wouldn’t say I like this brass color by Schulzen because it’s so flashy. But I think it’s excellent because the thin iron plates feel good.
(2023/03/28)
Border Model IV Tank F1, parts with weld marks and bumps on the top of the turret are incorrect, and smooth without bumps seems to be the correct answer. I heard Tamiya’s IV is also step-free, but I don’t know because I don’t have it. The kit I got was unluckily an early lot or a mistake with a step. I didn’t notice unless I was told. It was said that I could get a replacement part if I contacted the agency. I don’t care about it, so I’m OK with it. This time, I plan to build a vehicle fully equipped with Schulzen, which I didn’t see much of, so toward the end of the production period, some vehicles might have uneven turret tops. Come to think of it, a long time ago, there were things like the non-slip molds on the caterpillar of the Dragon Elephant were inverted, or the molds on the Tristar IV tank fenders were dotty and bad. I feel better having an accurate kit. It may even lower my motivation if I am told these parts are wrong before I put them together. Don’t I follow up that box paintings are incredible?
The part number of the turret is assigned differently. I was a little panicked.
I’m thinking of putting a figure on it, so I just opened the hatch on one side. Maybe it’s time to match the figures.
I attached the delicate part on the back side of the wheel shaft. Nobody looks at these parts. Primarily self-satisfied.
When the Schultzen is installed and the side hatch is open, it interferes with many things and is confusing. When I tried to match the figures, the hatch’s opening interfered with the Schultzen, and the angle of the Schultzen was distorted, which was a big problem. In this area, I think it would be less troublesome to build it all at once while adjusting each part.
(2023/04/02)
Most of the assembly is done. Schulzen has not fixed it, considering the painting. It’s a big metal part, so I’ll start the basic painting after blowing the metal primer later.
Yes, that would be nice. I like the distinctive look by Schulzen. I think it’s very cool.
I forgot to work on the tow rope. As a bonus, a bucket and a jerrycan also were included in the kit. I’ll make it later.
It’s getting much warmer, so it’s easier to paint. But these days, yellow dust seems to come from the Chinese continent, so keeping the windows open may be risky.
The bucket and jerrycans that come with the kit. The German tank crew figure kit also included jerrycans.
(2023/04/13)
Recently, the climate has been so nice that I’ve been going out all the time, and I haven’t been able to make much progress with the model. I just started painting. I blew metal primer because Schulzen is a big part and a whole metal plate.
This time, I thought it was unnecessary because I didn’t intend to use gradation paint, but I used black as a primer. The interior is originally white, but the figures are arranged, making it hard to see inside. There are a lot of small details so that it may have a shadow effect. There is also an open hatch, so I painted the interior black, just in case.
(2023/04/17)
I thought I had a lot of dark yellow stock, but Mr. Color No. 39 was almost out of stock and used up in the middle of the painting. I had Tamiya’s dark yellow, so I mixed it with Creos and painted it to my taste. I wouldn’t say I like it too whitish; however, it’s not good to be too dark. It isn’t easy. Now let’s try the Gaia Color, Dark Yellow. It said that the colors of the period were reproduced precisely.
With this kit in dark green used in camouflage, only mig is available by the color specification. When I checked the closest color, it said khaki for Creos, but I think this is strange. I ended up blowing a mixture of khaki and khaki green.
So when I tried to buy a Creos Mr. Color for the first time in a while, I was surprised to see the price increase so much in Japan. Plastic model-making costs a certain amount of money to equip tools, but we don’t have to spend as much on additional tools after a while. But I sometimes buy more paint and consumables, so I can’t help it. Especially for paints, even if the price rises a little, they can’t be finished without painting. I have stocked Gaia Colors for my next painting. This time, it’s a mix of Creos and Tamiya. I’ll probably make a German tank a lot so it won’t be wasted.
(2023/04/23)
The Type-IV tank, which is being made, is now complete. I took many photos with and without Schürzen because it gives a different impression.
A Schürzen is an outer supporting armor plate that protects the side armor and hatches from attack by small arms, antitank guns, and shaped explosives. It became standard equipment in April 1943. There is also the problem of not applying a Zimmerit Coating, but I don’t think I need it this time. I think August 1943 to September 1944 was when the coating was formalized.
The decals are thin and of excellent quality. A little mark softer will make it fit the vehicle immediately. The installation of the Border Model did not mention the unit’s name. Maybe somewhere on the Eastern Front.
I equipped it without one Schürzen plate. Since it is a thin metal plate, I painted it after primer coating; when it’s taken on and off too often, the paint will peel off around the holes it fits.
The Border Model kit had two extra buckets, so I hung one.
This level of Schürzen equipment is random and looks the best.
I haven’t made many German tanks lately, but many small painted parts exist. Most have mostly blackish parts. The rubber part of the wheel is still hard.
I tried weathering and chipping for the first time, but it might have been a little noisy.
This is what a full Schürzen looks like. It looks like a knight in medieval armor.
The Border Model Type-IV tank was easy to make because the small parts were sharp and fit well. The only paint indication color is mig, but I already make a lot of German tanks, so I don’t have to overthink it to choose colors. For now, the vehicle is finished, so I want to get the tank crew on board as soon as possible.
(2023/04/25)
