I tried to build this destroyer NENOHI released by Aoshima. It seems to be the equipment of a ship at the time of 1933. A box package picture is excellent. I bought it without thinking, but I remembered that the destroyer Kagero which I had made before, was an ancient and complex kit; it’s the same manufacturer…
Even a destroyer of the same Aoshima is entirely different from Kagero, which I built before. A small mold is splendid. I purchased it without checking well but considering many parts are renewed.
The main gun of the destroyer is easy to break. I broke some of them while making them. I substitute it in a brass line. I feel slightly oversized when it is 0.5mm though it is too thin when it is 0.3mm. Unfortunately, because there is not 0.4mm at hand, I used 0.5mm; plugging into the base is demanding. Because I need various sizes in surprising timing, it looks better having 0.4mm lines.
Ohhhh! A brass pipe of 0.4mm had been bought before. Though I made the stock list of metal parts, it was slightly late, if I noticed. I don’t want to handle this sensitive work anymore. I’ll use it at the time of the next vessel modeling.
It’s slightly regrettable. I changed the barrel of 50 calibers 12.7cm, single turret to a brass pipe. To mix with the thickness of the brass stick, it was seen using a 0.5mm pipe this time. To match the thickness of the brass bar, this time tried to use the 0.5mm pipe. Because they were damaged by chance, all gates are suitable for a pretty sharp feeling after changing them. I feel like I understand the person who changes it for metal parts.
Build a model of Aoshima after a long time in this kit; I think the plastic parts are a little sticky when filing them. It’s a little different from the other company’s parts.
(30-April-2016)
Almost all assembly has been completed.
I attached a handrail every time my ship model building. This is the Ocean Spirits photo-etched parts.
It is a strategy to assemble it to the limit and to paint later.
It isn’t easy to install the handrail beautifully on the ship’s side.
I was impressed with the mold of the watertight door’s fine reproduction.
(31-May-2016)
The Destroyer Nenohi is shorter than the Yukikaze (the upside one). Yukikaze is a Fujimi kit, and I have left it since the last summer because of its too detailed and hard photo-etched parts for me. It came out when I looked for the etched parts of the handrail. It had been completely forgotten. If I’m in the mood, I try the photo-etched parts.
After painting a bottom color…
It was all painted in a warship color.
As with any of Creos and Tamiya acrylic paint, the brush touch feeling of these paints has viscosity. It’s difficult to explain with words; I’m accustomed to enamel paint, and I like the sense that paint gets on the surface thinly.
(4-June-2016)
A destroyer “Nenohi.” First-class destroyer Hatsuharu Type 2nd ship. It was launched on December 22, 1932; this kit reproduces the equipment of a ship just after the completion.
As for the destroyers of the same type, they constructed six ships in total; Hatsuharu, Nenohi, Wakaba, Hatsushimo, Ariake, and Yugure. There was a problem with the recoverability of a ship and the hull strength by weight saving and heavy armament, so only six destroyers were completed. I wonder if only six ships in the destroyer construction are too small?
I do not understand the customs of ancient calendar ceremonies. “Nenohi” is related to the Chinese zodiac, and “Ne” is a mouse. On the first day of the “Ne (mouse)” from the New Year, people pick leaflets and young pine out in the field to celebrate longevity.
Commissioned: September 30, 1933
Displacement: 1,400 long tons
Standard length: 109.5m
Beam: 10.0 m
Speed: 36.5 knots
Complement: about 200
Armament
• two × twins, 1 × single Type 3 127 mm 50 caliber naval guns
• 2 × single 40 mm A.A. guns
• 3 × triple 610 mm (24 in) torpedo tubes
• 18 × depth charges
Nenohi was attacked and sunk by a torpedo attack by the U.S. submarine during the Aleutian area operation on July 5, 1942. Carried out patrols in various locations, it seems to have sunk at one U.S. submarine at least.
This time, I forgot the way the ship model has been passed a very long time. By changing the order experimentally, it almost assembled, and the painting was next.
The antenna gluing with the mast is thin. Because the state of the antenna delicately changes which part of the mast it sticks to, it isn’t easy. Sorry to say, I have twisted them a little.
The ship’s name is written in Hiragana on a stern.
It was before the Greater East Asian War, so a ship name is on the side by Katakana.
I cut a white power supply cord, pulled an electric wire from the inside which I bought in a home center, and round slices for the lifesaving buoy. I wonder if it was about 30 yen per 1m.
The main gun, which I replaced with metal because of the damage, was not indicated the difference between pipe and plane wire stick. But some brass pipes I used for a single gun turret look cool.
Taking a picture is difficult because the ship model is long and narrow. Moreover, the body is gray, so adjusting the brightness is delicate.
The whole body, the front and the rear half, zoomed up. I took various photos experimentally.
Regrettably, some of the handrails had been twisted. But I think a precise sense goes out a little, though it’s a compact body.
When I painted with aqueous acrylic over the lacquer paint, I thought the paint could be easily modified to wipe off with the thinner; it does not become unexpectedly challenging to stick to the surface of the acrylic paint. In case it’s enamel paint (Tamiya is easy, Humbrol is difficult once after completely dried) easy to fix.
I think this kit shows the potential energy of AOSHIMA. Maybe next time, I’ll try Hasegawa’s warship kit.
(7-June-2016)
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